There's a lot to talk about, so I'll start with a little video compilation I took in Rishikesh to give you an idea of the sights and sounds you'll encounter.
Life in India is very noisy and visceral. You're surrounded by many people. Rishikesh felt like a small town after Delhi but even it has a population of over 100,000. Towns are build very compact, with brick buildings pushed together and reaching sometimes four stories into the air. It makes for a noisy and open place to live. And your roof is like your backyard and patio. Kids play tag and fly kites up there, men and women hang up their laundry up there, and monkeys hang out up there.
This is probably unique to living right by the Himalayas, but Rhesus macaques regularly prowl the rooftops in search of good eats. They especially love to take sacks of garbage and rip them open to look for oranges and bananas. Our yoga hall was regularly invaded by these cute but greedy guys. The trick is to carry a big stick (or a broomstick) and walk toward them menacingly. They show a big game but they'll run.
The good monkeys are the silver-furred ones. We called them the "yogic" monkeys because they always seemed gentle and at-peace. Never greedy or hot-tempered. And so anthropomorphic.
Outside in the streets you'll see all manner of animals. Walk down the street and you'll see wild dogs who are somehow well-fed and friendly. They help you fight monkeys, too. Cows litter the streets and do as they place, though shopkeepers won't hesitate to beat them back from their storefronts with a swift pat or push. Or by attacking them with a lawn chair, which I saw once. Luckily cows don't feel a whole lot. I've seen one get pelted by rainwater from a gutter and not budge an inch. Strange beasts, these Brahmin cattle!
Keep walking and you'll inevitably see poo. And pee. And poo. And more poo. India doesn't smell nearly as bad as I thought it would, but you definitely have a visceral connection with the more, hmm, mundane aspects of living. You get used to it quite easily and it becomes just another part of life.
You'll also see men playing cricket out in big dirt fields. They'll play cricket anywhere! You can tell this country, by and large, loves to watch and play cricket. The shopowner down the street was always watching it on his little 90's era TV at his shop.
Something that will affect you each and every time though is the poverty. It's hard not to feel sympathy every time you pass someone holding out their hands for money or food. People often congregate near busy walkways or tourist areas, and you'll pass by a dozen or so at a time sometimes, each one in need. I always gave to this man with atrophied legs. He always had a smile on his face when you passed by and didn't really beg for money, so much as be present with a little tin can and a smile. Even in that situation he can find some happiness, which means I should have nothing to want for. I can walk with both of my legs, see with two eyes, play piano with two hands and arms. There's much to be thankful for. I saw many young people working on roads, building, laying bricks, etc. People work hard in this country.
Getting around India is easy and cheap. The easiest way is to flag down a tuk-tuk driver. Always haggle with them because they'll often halve the price after a few rounds of "nope, see ya." There's a video a friend of mine shared that explains Tuk-Tuks and their lives pretty darn well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3nAQWxQric
You can forget about department and grocery stores. I loved visiting the essence oils shop to buy my soap and incense, and then walk to the general store to buy penny candies, toilet paper, and chocolate bars. Toilet paper is a luxury in India and a single roll will set you back 25-30 rupees (50¢). Men come by with carts full of cauliflower, tomatoes, and beet carrots for sale. It's a very traditional and lovely way to buy your goods. They also have stands by the sides of the roads.
I lived by the ganges and was very fortunate to be so upstream to see its waters clear and blue. People bathe regularly in the Ganges, pray to it, and make offerings by sending plates of marigolds and such downstream. Little children come by wanting to sell you flowers for 5-10 rupees. Lots of children selling flowers and such by the river. I wished they could be kids more and play instead of having to work at such a young age. India has a lot of poverty. It was hard for me to see a middle-class while I was there. Everyone's trying to get by, help their families, etc.
The saddhus are a funny bunch. They wear orange and never cut their hair. I saw a couple of them play fighting with their canes once. I'm not sure if they are enlightened, ascetic and working towards enlightenment, or what, but they're always to be found on the benches by the chai stall, talking and smoking bidi with their pipes.
Traffic is mad but has a rhythm and a rule to it. Street lights are non-existent outside of major cities. It's so safe because there are no rules - you have to be observant in order not to hit anyone or anything. I spent a day driving with a rented scooter and had no trouble navigating the streets or the highways, though I wish they used parabolic mirrors for those unguarded, don't-run-off-the-cliff-because-ouch hairpin turns. It's fun to see the roads in Indian towns!
Dining out is cheap and delicious. You can have a lassi, naan, a main dish, AND ice cream or some other treat for 200-300 rupees, which is 4 or 5 USD. It's amazing. Indian food and chai can be had for even less.
The nights are dark, for there aren't many streetlights in towns like Rishikesh. It's great because you have a great chance to view the stars and planets up in the sky. Right from your rooftop!
Hope you enjoyed the post. It meandered a bit but let me know if you liked it. :-)
Tyler
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