About this Blog

RYT-200 trained in Rishikesh, India.
Born and raised in Oklahoma, USA.
India travel, yoga philosophy, Sanskrit language, and more.
Showing posts with label Rishikesh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rishikesh. Show all posts

Monday, April 7, 2014

Monkeys, Cows, Dogs, and More: Living in India

I was only in India for 7 weeks, but I learned so much about life in India even in that time.

There's a lot to talk about, so I'll start with a little video compilation I took in Rishikesh to give you an idea of the sights and sounds you'll encounter.



Life in India is very noisy and visceral. You're surrounded by many people. Rishikesh felt like a small town after Delhi but even it has a population of over 100,000. Towns are build very compact, with brick buildings pushed together and reaching sometimes four stories into the air. It makes for a noisy and open place to live. And your roof is like your backyard and patio. Kids play tag and fly kites up there, men and women hang up their laundry up there, and monkeys hang out up there.

This is probably unique to living right by the Himalayas, but Rhesus macaques regularly prowl the rooftops in search of good eats. They especially love to take sacks of garbage and rip them open to look for oranges and bananas. Our yoga hall was regularly invaded by these cute but greedy guys.  The trick is to carry a big stick (or a broomstick) and walk toward them menacingly. They show a big game but they'll run.


The good monkeys are the silver-furred ones. We called them the "yogic" monkeys because they always seemed gentle and at-peace. Never greedy or hot-tempered. And so anthropomorphic.


Outside in the streets you'll see all manner of animals. Walk down the street and you'll see wild dogs who are somehow well-fed and friendly. They help you fight monkeys, too. Cows litter the streets and do as they place, though shopkeepers won't hesitate to beat them back from their storefronts with a swift pat or push. Or by attacking them with a lawn chair, which I saw once. Luckily cows don't feel a whole lot. I've seen one get pelted by rainwater from a gutter and not budge an inch. Strange beasts, these Brahmin cattle!




Keep walking and you'll inevitably see poo. And pee. And poo. And more poo. India doesn't smell nearly as bad as I thought it would, but you definitely have a visceral connection with the more, hmm, mundane aspects of living. You get used to it quite easily and it becomes just another part of life.

You'll also see men playing cricket out in big dirt fields. They'll play cricket anywhere! You can tell this country, by and large, loves to watch and play cricket. The shopowner down the street was always watching it on his little 90's era TV at his shop.


Something that will affect you each and every time though is the poverty. It's hard not to feel sympathy every time you pass someone holding out their hands for money or food. People often congregate near busy walkways or tourist areas, and you'll pass by a dozen or so at a time sometimes, each one in need. I always gave to this man with atrophied legs. He always had a smile on his face when you passed by and didn't really beg for money, so much as be present with a little tin can and a smile. Even in that situation he can find some happiness, which means I should have nothing to want for. I can walk with both of my legs, see with two eyes, play piano with two hands and arms. There's much to be thankful for. I saw many young people working on roads, building, laying bricks, etc. People work hard in this country.





Getting around India is easy and cheap. The easiest way is to flag down a tuk-tuk driver. Always haggle with them because they'll often halve the price after a few rounds of "nope, see ya." There's a video a friend of mine shared that explains Tuk-Tuks and their lives pretty darn well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3nAQWxQric

You can forget about department and grocery stores. I loved visiting the essence oils shop to buy my soap and incense, and then walk to the general store to buy penny candies, toilet paper, and chocolate bars. Toilet paper is a luxury in India and a single roll will set you back 25-30 rupees (50¢). Men come by with carts full of cauliflower, tomatoes, and beet carrots for sale. It's a very traditional and lovely way to buy your goods. They also have stands by the sides of the roads.


I lived by the ganges and was very fortunate to be so upstream to see its waters clear and blue. People bathe regularly in the Ganges, pray to it, and make offerings by sending plates of marigolds and such downstream. Little children come by wanting to sell you flowers for 5-10 rupees. Lots of children selling flowers and such by the river. I wished they could be kids more and play instead of having to work at such a young age. India has a lot of poverty. It was hard for me to see a middle-class while I was there. Everyone's trying to get by, help their families, etc.




The saddhus are a funny bunch. They wear orange and never cut their hair. I saw a couple of them play fighting with their canes once. I'm not sure if they are enlightened, ascetic and working towards enlightenment, or what, but they're always to be found on the benches by the chai stall, talking and smoking bidi with their pipes.






Traffic is mad but has a rhythm and a rule to it. Street lights are non-existent outside of major cities. It's so safe because there are no rules - you have to be observant in order not to hit anyone or anything. I spent a day driving with a rented scooter and had no trouble navigating the streets or the highways, though I wish they used parabolic mirrors for those unguarded, don't-run-off-the-cliff-because-ouch hairpin turns. It's fun to see the roads in Indian towns!



Dining out is cheap and delicious. You can have a lassi, naan, a main dish, AND ice cream or some other treat for 200-300 rupees, which is 4 or 5 USD. It's amazing. Indian food and chai can be had for even less.



The nights are dark, for there aren't many streetlights in towns like Rishikesh. It's great because you have a great chance to view the stars and planets up in the sky. Right from your rooftop!

Hope you enjoyed the post. It meandered a bit but let me know if you liked it. :-)


Tyler

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Holi: Festival of Colors in Rishikesh

Holi. Festival of Colors. A rainbow color warfare like I'd never seen before in my life. We started in the morning around 8:30am in our cottage/hotel area. Some students got excited and ran to each door, knocking and giving us a fun surprise. Powder leapt from hands and onto pants, shirts, skin, beards, hair, and anywhere else it could stick. I was the recipient of one such surprise, though I was ready for it!

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It was like a war zone inside our cottage when we left, or so I thought until our merry little band of yogis-in-training marched onward to Laxman Jhula, the small town 15 minutes to the North by the Ganges. That place was like Call of Duty: Holi Edition. An amalgam of multistory concrete buildings smashed together across a narrow street spanning a kilometer.

Little pockets of intense warfare littered the street. Balloons, sprayers, and big plumes of pink, green, blue, and gold being thrown into the air and your face by adults and kids alike. Balloons and soakers rained from above by little kids and women from the balconies. I can still hear the screams.

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As what happens often in wartime, you get separated from your group. Our group of 20 turned into 10, and then 8. We all eventually made it to the endpoint in various stages, looking like a technicolored paintball victim and smelling of bright flowers (the powders are sometimes natural and smell good). I had a train to catch that afternoon so I ran all the way back to our cottage, dodging all of the hotspots and powder plumes as I did so. Almost all, anyway. Not everyone was violent about their holi powder; some nice people and gents came up and rubbed your cheeks, head, and/or beard with some powder and wished you well!

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I didn't take any cameras with me as I wanted to enjoy the event fully and without worry. And I did. It was awesome. I want to do it again next year. If you have a chance to celebrate Holi...take it. You'll be pink and blue for a couple days afterward, but it's worth it! For more information on the holiday and its background, read the wiki on Holi. It's a nice lunar holiday and has a neat story about equality and new beginnings. Hope you enjoyed hearing about my Holi experience!

 

Tyler 

Graduation Ceremony

We had our graduation ceremony on our last Saturday night. It lasted 3.5 hours, but oh, the dancing! A frenzy of spinning, clapping, and sweating in our kurtas and saris. One of our instructors, Himanshu, and his friends got into the dance circle and danced like fiends! It was such an energy and excitement! I have a video compilation to show you some of our dancing.


I've had fun times with nearly every one of the fifty students in our training at Rishikesh Yog Peeth. This has been the best group to be with because everyone has been so accepting and loving. It's like nothing I've had before. Lots of beautiful happiness.

Roshan, our philosopher and anatomy instructor, reads out the names of us graduating.

The 49th class of 200hr Yoga Teachers at Rishikesh Yog Peeth!
Me looking very happy! :-D

I want to leave you with this poem my friend Kelsey Quinn wrote. She recited it at the talent show we had a week before graduation and it sums up my experience in such a vivid way. Many thanks to her for allowing me to publish it here.


Rishikesh Rememberings
by Kelsey Quinn

Slate grey wings dance in the dust overhead. Fluttering, cooing and wrestling in mounds of fluffy feathers resembling the aftermath of a child's pillow fight.

Thunderous footsteps lumber across steel shelters. Little menacing monkeys with coral cheeks snatch students' snacks.

Their calm cousins with coal faces covered in silver coats sit quietly in tree tops like wise grandparents who have seen it all and now watch the world with experienced eyes.

Soothing sounds of sitar and singing bowls spiral up the streets. Diffused smells of smokey nag champa and finger-warming fires mingle with the grounding scents of overflowing sacs of cardamom, fresh butter cookies and seasonal strawberries secured to cycles.

Cows express sporadic moos
Bikes bellow perpetual horns

Yuhhh! yells the man pushing his cart containing cruciferous crops. I can't help but wonder…is this perhaps the hindi word for cauliflower?
Tonight we are serving rice, lentils, and yuhhh!

In the hall Happy says Smile, Deepa says 'Yes? Yes, class?' Roshan says 'Pardon Pardon Pardon?', Dipti giggles.

Frying pumpkin fritters waft from Krishna's Kitchen. It's meatball night! Yogis rejoice in the spandex nature of their clothing. 
Grating, chopping, clanging and blending…blending, blending…mmmmmmm…margaritas…No. No. Back to the breath.

Blue kites soaring on rooftops amuse the young all morning. Rapturous cricket in deserted courtyards keeps the boys 'til evening.
Tangerine robes drape over spindly brown shins. Still sitting, smoke spiraling.

Brown cows, black cows, white cows.
White dogs, black dogs, brown dogs. 

Rose petals, marigold garlands, rust brick piles.
Mahogany mala beads, orange bindis, crimson bracelets, white rice;

Aquamarine ganga, turquoise gems, ruby rings, emerald foothills.
Green carpet, green heart chakra
Heart overflows

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I'll continue to publish my adventures in Rishikesh, and about Holi festival, and about my week-long travel in Rajasthan (camelback safari!) so stay tuned. Thanks so much.


Tyler

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

My Scooter Adventure into the Mountains

We get Sundays off at Rishikesh Yog Peeth every week. It’s our day to go out and do whatever we want. You can go into town and chow down on pizza and lassi by the ganga, sit an enjoy a satsang by a famous person (like Mooji), or…rent a scooter and drive into the Himalayas. I’ve done all of these things, but I want to tell you most about that last one.

For weeks I’d wanted to rent a motorbike and drive into the wilderness behind our yoga school but never quite found time. I finally made time after visiting the Beatles Ashram (!) to spent the entire afternoon on the back of my bike, but we went further and higher than I ever imagined me going and it was beautiful.

My friend Kelsie and I went into Laxman Jhula (the nearby part of Rishikesh) to rent two motorbikes. It cost each of us 500 rupees for two days plus 360 rupees for gas. We had to gas up again before leaving town, which brought the total to 1560 rupees, or about $25. Super cheap, like most things here. Gloriously cheap. If you ever want to try something new this is the place to do it. (We rented two days because sometimes the scooters are all rented out by the late morning, so we got them the day before). Beautiful!

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Well, almost. It didn’t start out beautiful. Driving one of those things was a bit scary at first. Wide mountain roads are in sharp contrast to the crowded, narrow streets of Rishikesh. I figured it out after 5 minutes but was pretty awkward and scary with all of the people, scooters, and giant jeeps vying for the streets along with you. There’s little room for newbies! 

Armed with out yogi apple bread from the market and a general idea of where to go, we set out past the footbridge. I had a general idea of how to reach this temple high in the mountains along highway 94, but not much more than that. I had my GPS with me to stay on route and it was helpful navigating the twists and turns. First we had to stop for gas. Gas pumps in India seem to all be full-service style. They’ll fill up your tank with a smile! They’ll also fill up your plastic soda bottles with petrol if you want. Wild!

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The highway runs up along the mountainside so it’s tortuous like you wouldn’t believe. But fun! Along the way you see all of these signs for the Border Roads Organization, or…BRO. They’re hilarious.

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We drove for an hour or so into the Himalayas before settling onto this beautiful little mountain town. We took our time here, taking in the sights and people. I took a photo with a cute little schoolboy who was with his sister. He had such confidence in telling me his name and talking to me. His father wasn’t far behind and said a very polite “Namaskar!” to me. People there were so polite and kind. 

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We got a bit list and asked for directions at this swank resort on the mountain for the temple. We had another 11 km or so to go. At the next little town we found we were almost there…just another 4km. Those 4km were some of the most fun and beautiful we had driven (and most of it was fun and/or beautiful).  

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Pine trees, a dynamic afternoon sun, and steep winding roads up to this beautiful temple. Just gorgeous! We passed by a small group of houses and an old woman pumping water smiled at us and said hello as we passed. We felt so welcome here.

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The temple itself was rather small but had a beautiful view. We had bought a little offering “kit” at the base of the entrance and walked the 110+ steps up to the restaurant, and then another 50-80 steps to the temple. 

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We had no idea what to do with the little offering kit, but there were some kids up there who were more than eager to help us out (for a price, of course!). We gave them some money and they cracked the coconut for us and showed us how to tie this red ribbon around the tree there. 

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We took some photos of the view (which was obscured by haze and clouds, unfortunately) and fed some bread to the cute dog following us about. The temple sanctuary area was small and dark, but quaint. We requested the Ganesha mantra and were given some sweets to offer to Ganesha and were blessed. His words were calming. They put red bindi stuff and rice on your forehead afterward, but the rice always seems to fall off for me!

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Now that we’d cleared any obstacles (spiritually) to our path, we decided to have our yogi bread for lunch down at the restaurant. The young guy running small cafe, Vicki, sat with us and helped keep the monkeys away while we dined on apple bread, almonds, and bananas. He was learning English from a “Learn Hindi” book in reverse, and I helped him out as best I could. We really hit it off and I was so content.

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We had to take our leave, enjoying the sunset down the road. The roads don’t have streetlights so driving at night is more dangerous. The drive back was quick and sweet. I got good at leaning into the turns and moved swiftly down the mountain roads back home. Despite what the pictures look like, I wore a helmet for 99% of my driving. Also, we saw yet more puppies. They are so cute.

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We finished with a dinner at the Beatles cafe in Laxman Jhula, returned our bikes, and called it a night! We drove a total of 78.7km. The journey was liberating. Driving myself anywhere I wanted to go was so freeing. We met wonderful people, shared smiles, and want to do it all over again soon. Beautiful day!

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Sunday, March 9, 2014

My Wonderful Birthday

Today has been absolutely wonderful. 

I let myself be me and free and it was beautiful. The afternoon was spent having heart-to-hearts over ice cream, singing and laughing in harmony, and dancing about in the yoga hall with friends just for the sake of pure enjoyment. Full potential. Being the real me. Kindness. 

We had a talent show tonight. So many talented people here able to express what this journey means for all of us. The poems, the music, the dancing. Being grateful to yourself for coming across the world to learn about yourself. When was the last time I was grateful to myself for something? People with the same fears as myself but also realizations about who they are and what it means to be and why. I learned so much from everyone today. 

I turned a 'quarter cench' today and it was the best birthday in India I could've asked for. Acceptance and love. 

Tyler



Saturday, March 8, 2014

Weekend Trip: Mountain Temple

Every weekend our yoga school takes us on a field trip. Our first weekend we visited a temple high in the mountains called Jayamataki (जयमाताकी) about 30 minutes northeast of Ram Jhula.

Getting there was a blast. They fit 6-8 of us into a jeep and drove us through winding roads. It was quite bumpy a bit worrying as we cornered unprotected cliffsides, but we arrived at the temple safely.

DSC 2785 This is going to be an adventure!

DSC 2775That look. These cows. India!

DSC 2645The Temple is up quite a few stairs and a long path! Nice little jog.

DSC 2650There’s a bell at the start of the stairs and at the finish. You ring both as you start and complete your journey. 

DSC 2656The inner part of the temple was quite small and simple. There were a few statues for offerings and worship.

DSC 2653Bells were present throughout this temple.

I wasn’t interested in the temple so much as the view from the mountain. It was stunning. Walking up the hill, it hit me that I was in India and I was moved.

DSC 2676Me doing a headstand before the valley. Very trippy to see such a view from upside down!

DSC 2684It was like a page out of National Geographic. Little villages tucked into the foothills of the Himalayas. Wow!

We had chai and cookies on the front patio area. A lot of us sat by the mountain and contemplated what it meant to be here. Others did some yoga poses and took photos. For each one of us the experience was different and had a different meaning. For me…I was happy to be in nature. After some photos I went by myself down aways and just sat there, enjoying the view.

MountaintempleEnjoy this 360º I took of the mountainside. It’s a beautiful sight. (Click to view)

I’ve been really lax about updating because of our studies. It’s my hope to post about each of the weekend trips here over the next few days. Hope you enjoyed the post!


Tyler